Well this whole park was a bit of a shit show. We got into Jasper National Park midday. We stopped at Mt. Robson Provincial Park for a short moment, but I was too excited about the national parks to stay long. The weather wasn’t offering any views of the park’s namesake peak, and there were people everywhere… I knew all of these parks were going to be overrun with people, but that didn’t make it any easier to deal with.
Leaving Mt. Robson, we finally get into the province of Alberta and into Jasper NP. We found a great hike to Beaver Lake in the heart of the park that didn’t have too many crowds. The mountain scenery was spectacular, even though it was a gray and dreary day. The lakes are clear and aquamarine, almost as if inviting you to take a dip. But you know they are damn cold so you resist the urge. About 5 miles on our first trail, and we were ready to explore something else.
We dropped down to Maligne Lake, and saw some black bears along the road. A mom and 2 cubs just puttering around. They were adorable. The lake was beautiful, but nothing to write home about. Every lake up here is amazing, with just an ever so slightly different hue of blue….
By this time, we are looking for somewhere to camp. Every legal site is booked solid, as the main campground of the park is closed for the season. That means the park is down over 600 sites! We drive down another park road, headed towards The Miette Hot Springs. As we approach the end of our road, Cas spots an unmarked gravel trail that descends down a steep hill. We make a U-turn and drive down. Score! An unkempt trail head with no signage telling us camping is illegal. Plus, another camper van has already set up shop at this same spot. The weather has turned to rain at this point, so we settle in for the night.
FYI, my camper top is still leaking…
The next morning we wake up early and head to the hot spring parking lot to see if there is a cafe. I want coffee, but didn’t want to draw attention to our truck this morning by wandering around in my PJs. We found a tiny cafe and get the most perfect coffee and Americano. Plus, the barista used to work in Banff National Park, so we’re peppering her with questions. We ask her mainly about where to camp, and she tells us that illegal camping in Banff is a no go. Fines up to $2000 are being handed out to people found sleeping in their vehicles. She tells us Jasper is pretty lenient, but Banff has some Nazi rangers who hand out tickets like the ice cream man. Great.
After coffee, we decide to hike a trail named Sulfur Skyline. Straight up for 3 miles, it’s supposed to offer the best view in the park. The only problem is that it’s foggy as shit. I promise Cas that the fog will burn off by the time we get to the peak, or we’ll be over the fog and have an amazing view regardless of its presence. She somehow believes me, and we head out for the uphill slog.
Mud, loose rocks, and more mud were the theme here. This hike sucked. Tons of people and shitty conditions made this steep trail incredibly dangerous and strenuous. After a little more than an hour, we emerge to the top. Or at least I think it’s the top…. There’s no way to know. The fog is so thick you can barely see your own damn feet. At least there are some cute chipmunks up here begging for food. I try to tell them that this food is bad for them, go forage for your own shit, but they don’t listen. They never listen…
Hiking down was even worse than hiking up. Each step could have led to a twisted ankle or busted knee. I’m tankful for my hiking poles, and insisted Cas and I both take one. I think they helped… The best part of the entire trail was that when we finally emerged out into the parking lot, a herd of bighorn sheep were rubbing off their winter coats onto parked cars. I very much enjoyed watching this…
We took a peek at the hot spring and saw that it was just a heated public pool. No thanks… We head out of this area, and drive North to Hinton. We were hoping to get laundry cleaned here, get some grub, and find a camp spot outside of the park. But, this place was weird. While walking around town waiting for our laundry to dry, we noticed there were no good restaurants, and just an all around shitty vibe to the city. We decided to hit one brewery south of town, and drive even farther south to the town of Jasper which is nestled within the national park.
We got into Jasper around dinner time, and attempted to go to the Jasper Brewing company. Come to find out, it’s a 30 minute wait. You can’t even go to the bar because they have that as assigned seating there as well. Lame. So we continue walking, and found the best locals joint named De’d Dog. They had great beer, awesome poutine, and a damn good bison burger with no wait. And way more character. Cas and I were very please with our find.
After dinner, we scouted out a trail head to camp at. We checked the area out, and found no signs saying camping was illegal. Score! We decided to hike off dinner for a bit, then settle in for the night.
The next morning, we were both woken up by loud knocking
Cas, in a whisper: What was that???
Me: Someone is knocking…
Cas: Ummm no shit Sherlock… who do you think is knocking?
I struggle to turn around, and finally get the camper open to see two police officers standing at my truck. Oh boy.
Lady Cop: Did you sleep here last night?
Me: Nope, just waiting for the rain to pass to go for a hike
Cop: Don’t lie to me, did you sleep here last night?
Me: Yup
So that probably wasn’t my best move. She takes my ID and goes back to her car. All the while, she has not figured out Cas is in the truck. Hasn’t asked about any weapons… She doesn’t seem to be the best police officer.
She finally comes back, presumably knowing that there’s no way to look up my information. Florida and Alberta are not on talking terms. Legally. She asks where I’m from about 3 more times. Finally gets my license plate number, then hands me a ticket.
Cop: It’s a $50 fine for illegal camping, and $40 if you pay within 14 days.
Ok, after the conversation we had with a worker who used to work in Banff about $2000 tickets, $40 is a piece of cake. This is cheaper than camping legally anywhere in this town. I gladly take the ticket… When she asks me out of the blue if I have a job.
Get this. I tell the lady cop I have no job, I’m just wandering around North America…. And with that, she snatches the ticket out of my hand. Tells me to not camp illegally again, then leaves! WTF just happened! Such an awkward encounter with crappy policing. Oh well. At least I didn’t get a ticket.
After this nerve wracking of a wake up call, Cas and I try to find a coffee shop with WiFi to stream the Women’s World Cup finals. We find the perfect place, and settle in with Lattes and our laptops… Until… We realize they have the WiFi set up so it doesn’t allow streaming! Dammit! The game has already started, and we’re scrambling to find a new venue. Dad is texting me updates as we drive around Jasper.
We looked up multiple places to watch the game the day before, but being so early in the morning, nothing was open. Cas decides to stop in at a hotel/sports bar, and finds a caring soul that eventually allows us to watch the game in the bar. The bar is closed, but we done’t car. We got the watch the game with one other American couple while eating an amazing breakfast. After a pretty shitty start, today was looking up.
The day got even better after USA won! Hoping we can put Jasper behind us for good, and move on to explore Banff.
