After the Redwoods, I had a camp spot reserved at Gold Beach State Park. This is a place where you can hike in 5 miles to set your tent up right on the beach for $5! Plus they have a shower with hot water. I am in! I find my way to the back country parking area, and prep my gear for the trek in. While packing, a herd of elk is mulling about behind me. People swerve off the road to stop and take pictures. It reminds me of driving into St. Andrews State Park everyday for 2 years, where visitors would slam on the brakes to take pictures of sickly deer covered with ticks. This of course infuriates me way more than it should. But, I suppose these elk are a little more remarkable than the shitty deer in downtown Panama City Beach…
The hike to the beach passes through the Murrelet State Wilderness Area. This preserve is chock full of large redwoods and brimming with ferns. It is quiet, peaceful, and remarkably easy. The path has almost no protruding roots or rocks. I’m feeling spoiled walking on such nice terrain. The end point of my trail passes through fern canyon, an area advertised quite a bit on the park brochure, and a place where they filmed some of the original Jurassic Park! So as I get closer, you can imagine I get increasingly more excited.
Once at Fern Canyon, I am immediately let down. A large group of redneck looking guys are pounding beers, kids are running around like they were raised by wolves, and some girls are chain smoking cigarettes. The canyon itself looks like nothing more than a large erosion gully. I saw much cooler, Jurassic-ish Park places while camping. So, I quickly pass this area up and head to my campsite. Maybe it’s the shitty people, or the continuous misting rain, but I realize I’m in a shitty mood. I’m sure a warm shower and a beach stroll can help with this.
As I find my campsite and pay my $5, I set my tent up in the rain and get all my gear inside. As I gather my things for the first shower in way too long, I snag my phone. Maybe there will be service? I haven’t spoken in Cas in a few days…
When I get to the shower, I realize there is only one. And it’s currently being used. Dang. I sit my ass down on a damp log and fiddle with my phone. Now, I know it seems silly, but anywhere I go I always check for WiFi. Seems silly, but a lot of parks will provide free WiFi, and do a bad job of advertising it. Sure enough, this secluded beach site is emitting a signal from the only building around. The bathroom. I call Cas on WhatsApp, and wait for my shower.
While waiting, I also buy a new coffee filter on Amazon. I was embarrassed to admit this, but I drove away from Whiskeytown with it on my bumper. By the time I had realized what I had done, I was 15 miles away. At that one moment, it became Schrodinger’s coffee filter. Both still clinging onto the bumper and lost on the road at the same time. When I stopped, I grabbed my camera. Trying to be positive, I would snap a pic of the filter hanging on for dear life and write a nice bit about it. But, that fucker was long gone.
Not kidding here, 40 minutes later, 2 girls emerge from the shower. “Sorry, we were really enjoying the hot water.” Cool, hope there’s some left. One other random note here, 3 separate park rangers told me the showers at Gold Beach were quarter operated. So, of course I lugged $5 worth of quarters with me on the hike, and to the bathroom. Alas, it required no quarters. Was this a joke to see how many hikers they could get to hike down with 2 pounds of quarters?? Cruel joke if you ask me.
After an amazing shower, followed by a wet and cold walk on the beach, I settle down in my tent for the night. The hike out the next morning went quickly. Got to my car, and headed toward Crescent City, looking for a laundromat. Haven’t washed any clothes since Reno, and I’m running out of clean underwear. After cleaning clothes, grabbing groceries and some coffee, I head north to a campground adjacent to Cave Junction, Oregon. This was a free spot in the woods along my route, so I was excited.
When I pulled up, I saw what I expected. When Forestry doesn’t provide trash services, people throw their shit all over the ground. Beer boxes, corn cobs, cigarette butts, and McDonald’s wrappers littered the area. I parked, grabbed a plastic bag, and picked up everything in my general vicinity. I couldn’t walk around without doing this, so don’t worry, it wasn’t a completely altruistic move. After cleaning, I walk down to the Illinois river to snap some pics and collect drinking water. On my way down, I passed a couple with two young kids in swimsuits, and a newborn baby. Like, baby baby. Like, fresh from the womb meatloaf looking nugget. I guess it’s cool to have a baby out in the woods, but it really looks like they live there full time.
After getting water, I settle in for the night in my corner of the parking lot. Going to use the bathroom (pit toilet), I realize this is the absolute worst bathroom I have ever seen. Someone has pissed on all the rolls of toilet paper, all over the seat, shitty toilet paper is all over the floor, and the lock has been punched out. This leaves a nice peephole through the door which, by the way, won’t stay closed. Looks like I’ll be shitting in the woods…
The next day brings me to Oregon Caves National Monument. A quaint little park tucked high on a mountainside. I pull up and pay for the next cave tour ($10). I few other people are in the group, but overall it’s a small gathering. Our tour guide is Ranger Neil, retired USGS geologist, this is just a fun summer gig for him. We get to talking before the tour, and he tells me he is going to be at Grayton Beach SP (in the Florida panhandle) in the next few weeks. Such a small world.
Found this gem 
Sweet view
The tour was awesome. Neil was full of corny jokes and wise cracks about President Taft (who signed off on the monument). He also adds in a plethora of geological information into the tour. Totally worth it. Just so you know, this was a much more intimate tour than say Carlsbad Caverns. There are no real large rooms, and you have to crouch down and waddle for most of it. Different from the large caverns, but still awesome. After the tour, I decide to do a bit of hiking. I’m going to be parking at a snow-park at Union Creek later in the evening (aka a parking lot), so I know I won’t find any cool hiking there.
After my hike and before I leave, I grab an envelope and stash some free state park passes and scribble some recommendations for Neil, and leave it at the front office. I found a few of these passes tucked into my hiking gear after I left the Park Service. I used to love to hand them out to people at the parks after I told them they couldn’t stay with their dog on the beach. This made it much, much easier to kick people out, as they didn’t lose their $8. Hey FWC, talk to the Park Service and get y’all some passes. This is a good way to get compliance from folks and it works all over the state.
Getting to Union Creek, I cross the Rogue River National Forest. This river crosses some really cool lava features, making for some swift moving water. I stayed at one overlook until it was dark. My parking spot was literally just some space on the side of the road, so I wasn’t really looking forward to it.
Tomorrow morning I’ll be headed to Crater Lake, and then on to Bend Oregon. Hoping to have service soon so I can get suggestions from Paula!!