As I write this, I’m sitting on my tailgate, shaded from the intense sun and howling winds. How did it get so damn hot so quick? I was not mentally prepared for 90 degrees today. The Rio Grande is just a few steps away, but its murky waters, fast current and steep banks keep me from jumping in. Too bad. That’s why I chose this site!
I have to tell you how I ended up here. Leaving Seminole Canyon this morning, I was hoping for an open slot somewhere in Big Bend. Surely they have at least one back county permit still available… The drive in along the border was beautiful and void of towns. I have 15 gallons strapped to my roof, but I am still cautious to stop whenever I can to fill up. All I need is to to get stuck somewhere out in the desert without gas and without cell service.
I was only stopped by border patrol once today, which is an improvement from yesterday. They all seem friendly enough. As I roll into Big Bend, the landscape is incredible. The Chizos (that could be spelled wrong) mountains loom in the distance as blue and yellow flowers line the highway. Lots of dumb people swerving around to take pictures. They make me nervous. Pulling into Panther Junction, the place is packed with kids and associated families. I realize it is spring break for Texas, and that is probably why it has been so difficult to find camping spots. It’s great those families are getting their kids outside, so I can’t be mad.
I walk into the back county office at headquarters, and take a number. There’s a huge table in the center of the room covered in maps. I love maps, so of course I sit down and start studying. When your number is called, you get the chance to plead your case to a park employee. Hopefully there’s room, and hopefully you don’t sound so incompetent that they don’t let you camp. As I’m sitting there, I hear a group of girls being told that there are no more campground or back county sites for tonight. But that they can go to a nearby town and find a hostel. I’m a little heartbroken, but I look up the town while I’m waiting, and it looks to be an artsy hippy town. Works for me. As they leave, the next gentlemen is up, getting a river float permit. As he is talking to the park employee, a young guy walks in, saying he will not need his permit for the Gravel Pits tonight. Their tent was destroyed in the storm yesterday. That’s a different story… A storm so fierce rolled in last night that just about all of Texas was under a tornado and thunderstorm warning. Winds were gusting up to 70 mph. The best part was that it hit right around 1 am, so most folks were unsuspecting. I had no leaks in the truck, so I was fine. But it made me wonder. I have all this gas on my roof, what happens if I get struck by lightning?
So, as my turn comes up to talk about camping, I snag the spot just given up, and head to the east end of the park. On the way, I stop at the hot springs. Filled to capacity with people, I opt to hoof it down to the main parking lot instead of waiting in my car for someone to leave. Why would I wait 30 min only to avoid a .5 mile walk? The springs are cool, but again, full of people. So I leave shortly after.
After that, I stop at a few more trails, then make my way to my campsite down a 4×4 trail. It’s named the Gravel Pit aptly, as that’s basically what it is. But its proximity to the river and to some back country make it appealing. I go for a short hike alone off trail. My first alone desert gallivant. I’m nervous, but can’t really understand why. I go balls deep in swamps here in Florida without a second thought, stepping over cottonmouths and pygmy rattlers on the regular. But here, it feels so foreign. I know I’m not an expert in this climate, and that freaks me out a bit. Regardless, I make it back to the truck, and try to prep for sunset. Hope it’s a good one.
Not an FWC shirt 
Hanging out in the gravel pit
Off to Big Bend Ranch SP tomorrow!